The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Met) in New York is organizing an exhibition dedicated to “the creativity and heritage of women in fashion and women-led fashion houses.” As part of “The Met’s Fall 2023 Costume Institute Exhibition,” the exhibition “Women dressing women” will highlight the history of fashion made by women. From December 7, 2023, to March 3, 2024, the exhibition will showcase 80 female ensembles from the 20th century to the present day, celebrating the work of 70 creators.
The exhibition will trace the lineage of influential women-led fashion houses for nearly 200 years, highlighting the pioneering female creators who led them. Among them will be Rei Kawakubo, Adèle Henriette Nigrin Fortuny, Gabriela Hearst, Ann Lowe, Claire McCardell, Pia Davis, and Autumn Randolp, Miuccia Prada, Madeleine Vionnet, and Vivienne Westwood, among many others. The exhibition will take place from December 7, 2023, to March 3, 2024, in New York.
An exhibition celebrating women’s social, financial, and creative autonomy
Through the exploration of four key concepts – anonymity, visibility, arrangement, and omission – the exhibition will offer a new interpretation of the traditional canon of fashion history and examine how the industry has served as a powerful vector for women’s social, financial, and creative autonomy. Discoveries about identities, mentorship stories, and connections between creators throughout history will be explored, providing new perspectives and an enriched understanding of their work.
Max Hollein, director and CEO of the Met, said, “This timely exhibition will invite visitors to reflect on women’s vital contributions to fashion from the early 20th century to today, through the unmatched collection of the Costume Institute. Women dressing women will also continue the museum’s commitment to amplifying historically underestimated voices while celebrating the work of those who have become familiar names. The spectacular garments on display will evoke renewed appreciation for the multidisciplinary talents at the heart of this dynamic art form, as well as for the countless women whose contributions have been, and continue to be, the driving force behind the global fashion industry we know today.”
An exhibition of fashion dedicated to the greatest creators.
Andrew Bolton, Chief Curator Wendy Yu of the Costume Institute, added, “Women have played an essential role in the success of the Costume Institute since its inception – its founding members include several inspiring women – and the department remains dedicated to recognizing the artistic, technical, and social achievements of women. We look forward to this opportunity to pay tribute to many creators, donors, and researchers who have contributed to shaping the Costume Institute and, more broadly, the history of fashion.”
Works exhibited for the first time at the MET
Karen Van Godtsenhoven, co-invited curator of the exhibition, commented, “The common thread between different generations of professional women reveals how subsequent generations have built and expanded on the legacy of their predecessors. By reflecting on intergenerational dialogues between these creators and the talented women who worked alongside them, we aim to offer a contemporary perspective, propelling the conversation further between the public and researchers.” The exhibition will highlight rare works from the Costume Institute’s collection, some of which will be exhibited for the first time at the Met.
The exhibition will conclude by highlighting stories of absence or omission through the presentation of objects from designers whose work has recently begun to receive broader recognition and credit, such as Ann Lowe, who designed Jacqueline Bouvier’s dress for her marriage to Senator John F. Kennedy in 1953, and Adèle Henriette Nigrin Fortuny, who played a crucial role in the design of the famous “Delphos” dress, introduced for the first time in 1909.
A tribute to great figures like Sarah Burton, Gabrielle Chanel, or Jeanne Lanvin
Iconic pieces from well-known designers will be displayed, including garments from Sarah Burton, Gabrielle Chanel, Ann Demeulemeester, Elizabeth Hawes, and Jeanne Lanvin. Pieces representing designers who have maintained a significant presence in the Costume Institute’s collection, such as Germaine Émilie Krebs, Miuccia Prada, and Elsa Schiaparelli, will also be featured.
The exhibition will be accompanied by a catalog published by the Metropolitan Museum of Art. A series of educational and public programs related to the exhibition are also planned, with an online presentation of the exhibition on the website.